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Showing posts with label computers. Show all posts
Showing posts with label computers. Show all posts

Tuesday, 23 December 2008

Christmas 2008 wishlist - top 10






Dear Santa

Most of the stuff I'd like for Xmas isn't actually easily available, if at all. You know me. But hey, don't you like a challenge? And it's not impossible to get them - the technology's up to it, it's just that no one is making them. Or making them anymore. Or, maybe, I just don't know where to get them from.

Yep - the things I want the most are things that could be, but aren't. Or things I used to be able to get, but can't now (why oh why do they stop producing good stuff, anyway? Classics will never stop being in demand).

So here's my very random X'mas wishlist: high tech, low tech, or just no tech.

(I'll leave out pyjamas that button up all the way to the top and my even more specific requirements as to undergarments, for now. And the answer to why there's no single word for "trouser leg" when we use "sleeve" instead of "shirt arm"!)

10. Motorbikes / scooters - big wheels, reverse gear, fuel gauge and clock

Why do most scooters have tiny wheels that make you feel every bump in the road? Is it because, hey, scooters are mostly for women (who wouldn't throw their dainty legs across rough, tough motorbikes, oh no), and women have more cushioning in their nether regions don't they, so they can like it or (literally) lump it?

Well never mind women, think joints. For both genders. It ain't that easy to get your leg over, so to speak. Especially as you get older and creakier. Scooters are much easier that motorbikes in that regard. But not if bumpiness cancels out that advantage.

Why can't they make more scooters with bigger, more stable wheels, dammit? And more powerful scooters with bigger engines, too.

And while I'm on the subject, why don't all scooters and motorcycles come with a reverse gear and a fuel gauge and built-in clock as standard? (Crash helmets, well, you just have to keep trying till you find one that fits your shape of head.)

A friend also whinges about many motorbikes being too high for most women, and indeed many men, even if you get the seat lowered to the lowest possible height. Maybe BMW and the like think that their image would be tarnished if anyone less than a beefy 6 foot tall man was to be seen riding one of their bikes around. But in these economic climes, wouldn't it be better to sell more bikes to the many shorter people who'd buy your brand if only you made motor bikes that were lower in height? Especially tourers.

9. MP3 recorder / player with Mini Disc-like editing

Because I record speeches at BarCamps etc, or rehearsals, or (with permission only of course) shows e.g. concerts I'm singing in, I want an MP3 / WAV recorder - not just a player.

I do have one (a Zoom H4 Handy Recorder field recorder, photo below), but it's quite bulky and not very user friendly in its controls especially in terms of recording and playback.

Zoom H4 - photo from Wikipedia, by Ed Poor

It would be great to have a small, user-friendly music player that also has decent recording facilities - built-in microphone, line in, with high quality recordings (or better still selectable quality) - particularly if it's geared for vocal recordings. It should handle as many formats as possible - MP3 and WAV minimum - and take memory cards that are 2 or 4 GB in size, ideally bigger. And could I have one at a reasonable price, pretty please?

So far, so possible. But what I've not found yet is a portable MP3 /WAV recorder that has editing features as powerful and flexible as you could get with the now pretty much dead MiniDisc format. I'm talking really easy divide, combine, erase, move of tracks. To quote Wikipedia:

"MiniDiscs can be edited very quickly even on portable machines. Tracks can be split, combined, moved or deleted with ease either on the player or uploaded to PC (only with the latest version of Sony's PC based SonicStage V4.3 software) and edited there."

I hope we'll get that in the future (and bookmarking specific spots in tracks for playback would be great too). A player / recorder combined with DAB radio and the ability to record from the radio would be the icing on the cake. But better editing on portable recorders will do me just fine!

8. Huge, microwaveable, dishwasher safe coffee / tea mugs by Brookshaw

I like a huge cuppa tea. Or coffee. Most mugs are too small for me.

I thought I'd found the ideal mug when I came across Dunoon Stoneware's "Nevis" range with a big 0.48L capacity and lovely large handles.

Thing is, I liked Jane Brookshaw's cheerful bright animal cartoon designs the best. In fact I loved them, and still do. They make me smile. I bought one or two of every single design in her range.

But, I can't replace my chipped mugs because Dunoon don't do those particular designs anymore (just wishy washy pastel ones, or mugs with less comfortable handles, or mugs that are simply too small).

Bring back Brookshaw's punchy funny designs, please! I'd buy more, I really would. It's an own goal there for Dunoon because I don't buy their mugs now. Yet I would if they still sold the classic Brookshaw range, pictured below (photo by me, licensed under CC - see bottom of page).

7. Straight backed low chair (see, I did say "no tech"!)

It seems impossible to get a chair that has a 90 degree angle between seat and back. They all slope backwards. I know it seems to be received wisdom these days that a 135 degree angle is best for the back, but I still want a straight back chair.

As Alexander Technique practitioners will tell you, a straight backed chair is useful for Alexander. I'm no expert but learning Alexander Technique has really helped me, though I'd be the first to admit I don't do it often enough.

But it's near impossible to find a totally straight backed chair in the UK. Like I said, they all seem to slope at an angle. I'm still looking.

(And I need it to be low because I'm short, and on most chairs made for grown ups my feet don't touch the ground!)

6. Old-fashioned roller skates, updated


(Credit: photo by bulldog1, licensed under an Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 2.0 Generic Creative Commons licence)

Remember those skates you could wear over your trainers? I want something like that, portable, lightweight, easily removable and packable away, which you can slip on quickly over your shoes when you emerge from the Tube. Wouldn't that make commuting much faster? (if perhaps more risky for those people who won't get outta mah waaaaaay!).

Better still, comfy roller shoes with retractable wheels which pop out with the push of a button, and just as easily pop away again.

I've seen some but they're not easy to walk in or the wheels are too flimsy, like toy skates. I want real, usable, hardwearing ones.

And it's got to be quad i.e. four wheels, for extra stability. As I probably will fall over, given the chance. (I tried Heelys, once. Couldn't keep my balance and nearly had a heart attack. Cross that one out.)

The closest I've come across online are Aircoast sneakers but I don't know anyone who's tried them (and their site somehow doesn't inspire confidence in me - plus, their roller skate shoes are out of stock, not a good sign). The idea of electric powered roller shoes sounds excellent to indolent me, though!

(Talking about footwear, I've given up on LL Bean Puff Boots. Best indoor slippers I ever had: warm, comfy, hardwearing, you could step in and out of them easily, but they don't make them anymore. They'd probably be on my wishlist if I thought there was any hope of their being manufactured again. Which there isn't.)

5. Hip belt bag / holster for large PDA / mobilephone / cellphone

I lurve my gadgets but I don't want to be too weighed down carting them round in a backpack or bag.

I've tried Krusell cases; I've tried (and hated) the possibly fashionable but definitely impractical UrbanTool hipholster, which I rated as more for victim than fashion. No luck there.

I don't want a bag that you have to thread through a separate belt (I may not always want to belt my jeans, for a start).

Nope, the belt bit needs to be integrated, in my view. So that I can just strap the whole thing on in a jiffy. (No sniggering, you there at the back!)

So, I think they've got the right idea with "bumbags" ("fanny packs" I believe the Americans call 'em, and no sniggering again I say!). I don't care that they're the height of unfashion.

I like that you can strap the bag round your hips just by clicking the fastening into the buckle or clasp. Easy release too. Perfect. That's the sort of thing I want. No hands needed, and hips can take the load far better than shoulders or back, so they're much more ergonomic too in my view.

However, they need to be larger and stronger, and have big enough pockets / compartments for gadgets not just a purse (and have several pockets not just one). The fastenings have to be made of strong metal too, not plastic. (I've used bum bags with plastic buckles for phones etc. Trust me, the plastic teeth bend, the clasp slips out, and the whole thing falls down!)

A nice strong shoulder holster would be a good possible alternative - but with pockets or holders / holsters suitable for gadgets rather than guns, obviously.

The closest I've seen are these Happy Cow belt bags ("Happy Cow", I know, I know!), some of which even convert into a holster - but you can't click it on and off easily, and I'm too lazy to put on a belt with a tongue etc. I want an easy snap on / off fastening, just like on a bum bag. And I want zips for the pockets, not buttons.

So, I'm still looking for the ideal cellphone / gadget belt. One day, I may well have to get one made to order.

4. Endless Pool

Treadmills for runners and stationary exercise cycles are all very well, but I'm not much of a runner or a cyclist. Yet I'd still like to keep, err I mean, get, fit.

I swam a lot in my teens. Almost every day, in fact. Never up to swim team speeds, but I was very at home in the water.

But I've not swum for years now.

Partly because these days most public pools are too cold for wimpy me (I tried a posh hotel pool once - weekend in the hotel courtesy of my then employers. Beautifully warm, bliss!).

And partly because I've become more and more fastidious with age. When I think of pools, I'm immediately reminded of a brilliant Private Eye cartoon I once saw, of a public pool with separate lanes labelled something like: "Veruccas". "Plasters". "Other people's wee".

You understand why I'm not exactly drawn to swimming these days.

But, I'd love to have a private swimming pool. I'm talking a tiny pool that's like a treadmill for swimmers, which generates a perpetual current you swim against: the Endless Pool swimming machine. Unlike many of my other wishlist items, this is something that you can get, even in the UK. My place just isn't big enough to have a "real" pool, but maybe it's possible steal a small patch from an already small garden?

And oh, Santa, while we're on the subject, the £13,000-plus needed to pay for an Endless Pool (and to put a roof and walls round the bit of garden, as an open air pool in England is to me only for the terminally masochistic) would also come in handy!

3. Virtual machines for the masses

I've loved the idea of virtual machines since I first heard of them a few years back, where you can run different operating systems on the same hardware as "virtual machines". As Microsoft put it in relation to their Virtual PC 2007 product, you can:

"create separate virtual machines on your Windows desktop, each of which virtualizes the hardware of a complete physical computer. Use virtual machines to run operating systems such as MS-DOS, Windows, and OS/2. You can run multiple operating systems at once on a single physical computer and switch between them as easily as switching applications—instantly, with a mouse click."

But I have in mind not so much being able to switch between different operating systems (which could include Linux etc as well as Windows), as being able to use virtualisation for security and convenience - even if you run just the one operating system on your virtual machine.

Wouldn't it be great if you could run a base operating system like Windows XP, on which you could install your favourite programs, and then use it to your heart's content - but if anything goes wrong or it slows down (or it catches a virus or other malware), you can just wipe it all out with a few keystrokes or mouse clicks, and then quickly and easily reinstate a fresh, clean (previously-saved) copy of your virtual machine with all your favourite programs already on it?

Virtualization technology does exist now, e.g. the open source VirtualBox, or the fairly well known VMWare, but it seems to me that it's still not quite there yet, especially in terms of the average consumer being able to use it effectively, easily and reasonably cheaply.

I hope it will get there sooner rather than later.

2. Proper mobile internet, and non-geographic mobile phone calls

There are 2 things I'd like to happen in the mobile industry, from a consumer viewpoint.

Mobile data charging

First, I wish that UK mobile phone network operators would offer combo voice, text and data price plans.

Plans like T-Mobile's Flext do let customers use their monthly allowance for voice calls and SMS messages in whatever combination the consumer wishes, but data isn't included e.g. mobile Web or email access. It really should be.

To me, that would be a lot fairer than so called "unlimited" data usage plans which really aren't. And people would be paying for what they're using, within their allowance.

Alternatively, if truly unlimited data at a fixed monthly tariff were a reality (rather than a pretence), it would really help the mobile internet take off - which would be good for all involved.

Calls from mobile phones to non-geographic phone numbers

Second, I've always thought it was unfair that consumers who use a mobile phone to call a non-geographic telephone number (0845, 0870, 0871 and the like) get charged more than if they phone via a landline telephone, and furthermore that the cost of that call is not within the customer's inclusive minutes allowed for the month, but is charged extra on top of that.

My wish here: they should cost the same as geographic numbers, and be included within the standard voice call allowance (unless they're special premium rate numbers whose much higher rates are clearly made known to the consumer).

Of course, businesses advertise those telephone numbers and make consumers use them because of "revenue sharing" - the business who is called gets a cut of the (higher) price paid by the consumer to the telephone company or network for the phone call.

In May 2008, as a result of consumer concerns about the lack of transparency on the cost of calls, UK comms regulator Ofcom did consult on changes to 0870 and on Extending Premium Rate Services Regulation to 087 Numbers (see the news release "Tightening the rules on 08 telephone numbers": 0870 charges should be reduced and tariffs better displayed and 0871 numbers subject to new regulation).

However, disappointingly in October 2008 Ofcom decided to suspend work on 0870 call charges. While they said they aimed to "publish a further statement on implementing any changes to 0870 policy by the end of the year... " and "publish a statement on its proposal to bring the most expensive 087 numbers (including 0871, 0872 and 0873 numbers) within the remit of PhonepayPlus, in the autumn", it's now nearly Christmas and there's no sign of either statement.

I don't know why Ofcom aren't protecting consumers by putting a stop to this very obvious "rip off" (as many have called it, for years) - there was an attempt in 2005 which got nowhere, and I fear that this latest effort will go nowhere too.

More consumer organisations (like the Communications Consumer Panel, formerly the Ofcom Consumer Panel) and consumers ought to lobby Ofcom and the government on this issue. Meanwhile, we consumers can try to protect ourselves by using (and contributing phone numbers to) Say No to 0870 - a site which lists geographic alternatives to non-geographic numbers. If you call the geographic number instead, it will be included in your inclusive minutes, so obviously you're better off using the geographic number, especially when calling from your cellphone.

It's not all bad news - Ofcom recently tried to publicise the use of 03 phone numbers, which are "real" non-geographic numbers. They're non-geographic numbers which consumers can safely use in the knowledge that calls to them aren't charged more than calls to national rate 01 or 02 numbers, and furthermore will be counted within the customer's inclusive minutes. (Ofcom itself has 03 numbers for the public to use to contact Ofcom.)

Indeed, recently (as Ofcom noted) the UK Department of Health issued a consultation on the use of 084 telephone numbers in the NHS, as they're considering banning the use of 084 numbers to access NHS services because, as they put it, "patients who use 084 numbers are paying more than the equivalent cost of a local rate call to access services provided by the NHS". The consultation ends on 31 March 2009 so if you're interested in this area, please do consider responding.

Of course, that doesn't mean that non-government departments (or indeed government departments outside the NHS) will start using 03 numbers instead of 084 numbers. But I hope it's a sign that momentum towards 03 numbers is building up, at least within some government departments. I'm a bit more cynical as to whether private commercial businesses will adopt 03 numbers unless the regulators make them.

1. Truly mobile computing - and Net access everywhere

For this biggest wish of mine to come true, a number of things will have to happen.

  1. Mobile computing devices need to get lighter and more usable and allow faster, more efficient data entry - but in my view netbooks aren't quite it, nor smartphones. Convergence of mobile devices is on its way, but who knows how long it'll take.
  2. Internet access needs to be ubiquitous - we need truly mobile, flexible, full Net access everywhere, at decent speeds, without having to pay a fortune or being forced to hunt out WiFi hotspots. Including free public wifi and full mobile phone / cellphone coverage in Tube trains and on Tube platforms, which is well worth putting up with "Honey I'm on the Tube" for, in my view! And as I've said above, unlimited data access including Web, bulletin boards, chat etc. That would be the real killer app for wireless.

We're certainly nowhere near there with wearable computers yet. For visual output devices, a.k.a. monitor screens, there are video glasses or head mounted displays like the Vuzix iWear "video eyewear" "personal video displays", but these headsets don't (yet) connect to computers, only DVD players, gaming consoles and the like. And you can't wear them if you wear glasses (they could make them like sunglasses that fit over regular spectacles / glasses, but they don't seem to yet.) Plus, some people just don't want to look like a cyborg. Believe it or not.

More small laptops (i.e. UMPCs, mini-notebooks, subnotebooks or netbooks as they're variously called) have become available this year, at long last - triggered in part by the (to me, not at all unexpected) phenomenal success of the Asus Eee. Problem is, any portable computer that's just over 1 kg in weight is still too heavy for me, and their size is still too unwieldy when you're standing up on the Tube.

By the way, if you're in the market for a sub-notebook, I wouldn't recommend the Eee myself, because I feel Asus messed their customers round. And I'd also strongly advise against the Vye PC: much as I'd like to recommend a small British company which makes what at first sight seems a nice product, the "support" I got, even from the supposedly customer-friendly USA, was nothing short of appalling, and what should come as standard with the model I bought, didn't. However, people I know with true tech expertise have actually bought, and liked, the Acer Aspire One - so it's probably worth a try especially if you want to use Linux

It's also interesting that recent models of the Acer Aspire One even come with a SIM card slot so you can use it for mobile internet if you have a data plan with your mobile phone network provider.

But, it's still too large and heavy for what I want.

It will come as no surprise to regular readers that (as I've said many times before) the device I most crave is a handheld computer / H/PC / palmtop computer along the lines of an updated Psion 5mx, with the same weight, form factor / size and long battery life, and the keyboard exactly as it is, but with added mobile phone SIM, wifi, Bluetooth, email, fully fledged web browser (with Javascript and Java), and colour screen (with backlighting), which runs at a decent speed. User friendly. Sold at a fair price. Which lets you use third party applications e.g. your preferred email or chat / Twitter client. And allows easy transfer of data to and from a desktop computer with copy and paste.

(As an aside, one feature of a Psion application, Datasafe, which I really like is that when you leave an open password-protected page by switching to another application, when you switch back it asks for your password again. For better security all password-protected documents on all operating systems should do that, in my view.)

(Another aside - it may seem a minor point but devices, especially smartphones and the like which are aimed at business users, must be able to be made silent, and stay that way, when in a quiet environment - like a classical concert! No hidden nasties that spring to life suddenly despite your best efforts. That was a major defect of the Nokia 7710, that if you turned it on (e.g. to check email during a business meeting) it played the Nokia "welcome" tune and you just couldn't disable that.)

Comparative photo of Psion 5mx (top right), Asus Eee and Evesham laptop by RTPeat, licensed under Creative Commons BY-SA licence

The Psion 5mx was more than just a PDA and I'm still waiting for someone to deliver a modern computing device that has the features and advantages of a 5mx.

It's light and portable. Only 350 grams, including 2 AA batteries, which last for 15 - 20 hours. That's right, hours.

It's "instant on" (and off), whereas my XP computer takes at least 15 minutes to boot. It even saves stuff in RAM if you forgot to save before you switched it off, though obviously it's a good idea to always remember to save.

Zoom features are built in, so you can zoom in and out of any application - essential for something that doesn't have a full sized screen.

The landscape screen is perfect for Web access.

But most of all, I need easy, quick text input via a decent built-in hardware keyboard, or at the very least a non-miniscule onscreen keyboard with non-losable stylus (attached with a retractable cord perhaps!).

Why? Because two hands are still faster than one. Touch typing on a QWERTY keyboard is much faster than linear speech, even though voice recognition (speak orders to your computer?) is progressing. Mobile phone keyboards I use only when I have to, not because I want to. I don't reply to SMS texts as quickly as I should because most phone keys are too painfully slow and error-prone to pick text out on - even with predictive text.

The 5mx's integrated slide-forward keyboard is a design classic, a real keyboard with proper travel, which you can touch type on (at least if your fingers aren't too sausagey). An add-on Bluetooth keyboard might be livable with if it was very small and portable and had good travel on the keys. A decent on-screen keyboard like the one on the Nokia 7710 smartphone might do too, as long as it came with with non-losable stylus (attached with flexible cord!).

Granted, something the size of the 5mx would be a bit bulky to be used as a mobile phone: it wouldn't be very comfortable to hold to your ear. But that's exactly what Bluetooth earpieces / headsets are for. Keep the device in your bag or pocket (or belt bag, dare I say!), and use the earpiece for phone calls.

0. World peace

Just in case you thought I'd forgotten that one. (Hey, it seems a lot more likely than getting an Obama for the UK, anyway.)

Happy holidays, one and all!

Monday, 1 December 2008

Notebook computers & (female) UK consumers





So a survey of UK consumers, published in November 2008, conducted for computer microprocessor corporation AMD by market research outfit YouGov, found that we Brits (77%) value having Internet access over a car (54%) or washing machine (66%).

That's the bit that's been getting the most headlines.

I want to pick up more on the part that (according to the Netimperative news report) claims to show, in relation to notebook computers:

"Women surveyed fall into the ‘Mobilites’ category, as portability seems to be a more important buying factor - almost half (46%) voted weight as one of the important factors, compared to just 39% of men."

I think the emphasis there perhaps isn't quite right.

To me as a female, yes weight is one of the most important (if not the most important) factor for me when buying a laptop computer - but it's not because I value greater portability or mobility as such over other factors like speed or features. It's because I need portability, period.

Let's face it, women are on average physically less strong than men. That's simply a general fact. We just can't lug around heavy stuff as easily as big men can. For women, yes, size does count!

Something that's "portable" for men may not be portable at all for women.

There's no point in a laptop having all the latest technology, fast processor and whizzy graphics if its weight is such that it's not in fact practicable for me to carry it around with me.

That's why my cut off point for laptops is now 1 kg. If it weighs over 1 kg (like the HP Mini-Note) then I won't consider buying it as my portable computer, no matter how sophisticated or indeed good value for money it is otherwise.

I'll just look for the best I can get that's under 1 kg - i.e. I look only at "sub-notebooks".

It's not a question of levelling the playing field, but of enabling me to get on to the playing field in the first place!

If all "portable" computers were lighter than 1 kg, then I'd be considering other factors. But for now, weight is what counts the most with me - purely because if it isn't light enough for me to carry around with me comfortably, then it's as good as useless to me.

I'm sure I'm not the only consumer who takes this approach - it's not just women but teenagers / children too, and indeed men with back problems, and people generally who value their backs, who will prefer ultra-portable UMPC (ultra mobile personal computers) and netbooks.

It's great that netbooks are increasingly being produced in greater quantities. But there need to be even more of them, and even lighter, smaller ones. It's a big marketing opportunity which I hope computer manufacturers will run with - that would be good for all of us. And maybe one day I'll have my dream gadget of a netbook that's as small and light as a Psion 5mx, with as touchtypable a keyboard - but with a mobile phone and wifi too...

Sunday, 7 September 2008

Secure your Gmail / Google Mail from cookie theft





While logged in to services like your Web mail, Facebook or Amazon account, if you happen to visit a certain kind of (unbeknownst to you) malicious webpage e.g. by clicking a link from another webpage or in an email, it may be possible for bad hackers who are on the same network to steal your login cookie and then use it to log in as you - even if you're using an encrypted secure wireless connection, and you signed in via an encrypted https (secure http) Web browser connection. (I'd previously blogged about some risks of using public wi fi when some but not all browser connections are https.)

Heise Security explained in more detail how it's done. Essentially if the cookie is sent via an unencrypted http connection (i.e. if a service authenticates via cookies and their server doesn't set the secure flag) - which it seems is currently the case with Facebook and Amazon as well as Google's Gmail - then the cookie can be intercepted and misused.

They helpfully point out that when Google recently added an option to Settings to always use https, mainly for the protection of Gmail / Google Mail users who often use unencrypted public wifi connections (my emphasis), "this option also causes the server to set the secure flag, exclusively restricting the Google Mail session cookie to encrypted connections."

So, bottom line: if you use GoogleMail / Gmail, you should protect your cookies and yourself by securing your Gmail properly.

How to do that? Login to Gmail, go to Settings (link at the top of the page), scroll down towards the end of the General tab, and under "Browser connection" select "Always use https" and Save Changes:

There's no downside I can think of to doing that, and it'll be much better for your security.

I don't know if the same issue arises with Hotmail or Yahoo! Mail, and I don't know what the solution is for Amazon and Facebook etc - try as much as possible to avoid logging in to those sites when you're on a wireless network / WLAN (and maybe even other networks), I guess!

Saturday, 6 September 2008

Epigonion: hear ancient Greek harp sounds





The Astra Project have re-created what an epigonion might sound like.

No, the epigonion is not some kind of extinct hog, it's actually an ancient Greek stringed musical instrument which sounds like a harp and was apparently played up to the Middle Ages (see pictures of the epigonion).

Nor is the Astra Project about things astronomical - it: "aims to reconstruct the sound or timbre of ancient instruments (not existing anymore) using archaeological data as fragments from excavations, written descriptions, pictures...The technique used is the physical modeling synthesis, a complex digital audio rendering technique which allows modeling the time-domain physics of the instrument. In other words the basic idea is to recreate a model of the musical instrument and produce the sound by simulating its behavior as a mechanical system."

Click the arrow to play online, the text to download:
Listen to some Monteverdi as played on 4 simulated epigonions - and hear more examples.

What a fascinating project, I'd not come across it before.

Via the Financial Times.

Friday, 5 September 2008

Secure your BTHomeHub: change WEP to WPA





Got a BTHomeHub version 1.0 or 1.5? It uses WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy) for its wireless encryption as standard - but that's now very insecure. The latest Home Hub 2.0 defaults instead to the WPA (wi-fi protected access) security protocol, which is much more secure (see my separate networking post for why you should secure your wifi, and more on wifi security).

Even if you have a cable connection from your computer to your Home Hub and you don't use it to connect to the internet wirelessly from another computer in your household, the wireless feature of the HomeHub is turned on by default - so you still want to make sure it's as secure as possible to ensure that other people (neighbours, people in the street) don't use your broadband connection for their own purposes, which could eat into your download/upload quota, and so cost you money, as well as potentially lay you open to being held responsible for things they do online, like downloading illegal material (again for more info see the security section of my post on wifi networking).

To try to stop this wifi leeching by others, the Home Hub does provide wireless security by using a secure encrypted connection for wifi which requires entering a key (password) on a device before it can connect to the Hub - but earlier versions use the now no longer very safe WEP encryption.

If you have an older version of BT's HomeHub (and if you first started using BTBroadband as your ISP or internet service provider more than a few months ago, you probably do), then using WEP is a security risk for you and your family, and you ought to secure your wireless network properly by changing it to WPA if you haven't already - unless you need to retain WEP because a computer or device in your household which needs to connect to the internet via the router is older still and only supports WEP, not WPA. (In that case, you're still better off trying to upgrade the computer's wireless adapter so that it supports WPA, instead - a USB wireless adapter doesn't cost much these days and it's probably worth it - see section 2 of my previous post for more info.)

BT did put out a note about this back in April 2008 on their service status webpage -

- but honestly, how many customers visit that page regularly or indeed at all? (there's not even a feed for their status updates). BT really should have sent an email out to its customers about that, I feel.

How to change BT Home Hub version 1.0 from WEP to WPA

Instructions for the different versions of BTHomeHub are linked to from the BT Home Hub security advice page - the info on how to change security from WEP to WPA is the same for both 1.0 and 1.5 - so follow those links, I won't go into that here.

See my previous post for more on wifi networking in your home and other security measures.

Wednesday, 3 September 2008

Home wi-fi networking: basic practical guide for non-techies





This post is a practical introductory primer / tutorial, with pitfalls to avoid and troubleshooting tips, on how to set up a home network via the most common type of wireless networking, wi fi, using a wireless router - such as the box provided by your internet service provider (like the BT Home Hub pictured above). Typically this box can serve as a wireless access point for your home's "local area network" (LAN) as well as a gateway from your home network to the Internet, to enable all computers in your home to connect through the router to the internet as well as to each other.

I cover just Windows computers (XP service pack 2 or Vista only) - Windows XP SP2 and above comes with a wireless zero configuration (WZC) utility which makes it much easier to get everything working. (Getting the Asus Eee, which runs its own version of Linux, to access other computers on a Windows network consistently, and maintain that access, is a whole different kettle of fish - and if I figure it out I'll post separately about it.)

I'm writing this tutorial because most of the articles I found online mostly either gave too little info to be of much practical use to me, or were too technical for non-geeks to figure out. My focus is on fundamental practical concepts that non-techies need to know in order to set things up properly and do some basic troubleshooting, as with my practical guide to connecting audiovisual equipment to your TV (set top boxes etc) - so there'll be no detailed explanations (except on security, because it's important).

The basic principles will be the same for all, although my examples use BT Broadband (which is via an ADSL connection) and the BT Home Hub as that's what I've used the most, and also illustrations using XP Pro.

1. What's wifi home networking?

The wireless feature of the BT Home Hub and other routers can provide you with a wi-fi wireless local area network or WLAN, which is certainly very convenient: via the router, different computers in your home and even devices like smartphones and the iPod touch, situated in different parts of your home, even different floors, can connect to the internet and to each other, i.e. a wireless network, all at the same time - without needing any cables or wires.

The basic principle is that you connect each computer to your router, and thereby connect them to each other in a single network. The router is the "hub" of it all, at the center of a "star".

The router itself connects to the Internet through your phone line (phone socket connected via cable to router) or cable modem. So, the computers connect to the Internet through their connection to the router.

Wired connection. If your router has a networking Ethernet port and your desktop computer also does, then you could if you prefer connect them together with an Ethernet RJ45 cable instead of wirelessly - the cable's cheap, or might even have been supplied by your ISP. No setting up is needed for that except to plug one end of the cable into the router and the other end into the computer's ethernet port, while both are switched off of course. Indeed, personally I think it's best that at least one of your home computers should be connected to your router via a wired network connection.

Wireless connection. A wifi WLAN is pretty straightforward to set up these days. For notebooks / laptops, wireless networking via wi fi wireless radio signals is much easier, unless perhaps it's a laptop that stays just in one location as a desktop replacement. Line of sight strictly isn't necessary for wi fi to work, though it's better if possible. The range of the wi fi signals is variable and depends on the environment (wall thickness, distance, interference from digital cordless phones, metal etc) - could be 10 feet, could be 300 feet. With my BTHomeHub in my own home "reception" is fine on a different floor, about 20 feet away.

2. Equipment - router and all computers to be networked wirelessly must be wi fi enabled

Before you can connect a PC to a router via wifi:
  1. Both bits of kit must support wi-fi - not all computers come with built-in wi fi capabilities (though most modern PCs especially laptops or notebooks / UMPCs will). Nor do all routers, though again many newer ones do.
    • If a computer doesn't have a wi fi chip, it's easy to add wifi by buying a wireless USB adapter e.g. a wifi dongle that plugs into a spare USB port on the computer, or a wireless laptop card that plugs into the PC card slot of a laptop - you'll generally need to make sure that you install the drivers for the adapter, usually from a CD, before plugging it in; just follow the instructions that came with the adapter. Obviously, make sure the adapter is compatible with your computer's operating system - most will provide Windows drivers.

  2. They must both support the same type of wi fi. There are different standards. 802.11b is oldest and slowest. 802.11g (wireless G) is newer and faster. And there's even faster whizzier 802.11n (aka wireless N or 11n) now, with 802.11r on the horizon. Some equipment can support several standards, e.g. the BTHomeHub does.

  3. Wi fi has to be enabled on both of them (it usually will be on the router by default; some computers have physical switches e.g. on the side of the PC to turn wi fi on or off e.g. some notebook computers; some computers have a key combo e.g. holding Fn then pressing a particular key on the keyboard to toggle wi fi on and off, e.g. some notebooks again).

  4. Furthermore, both of them must be able to use the same standard i.e. the same type of wi fi - e.g. if the router has been set to 802.11b and the computer uses 802.11g, then they won't be able to communicate. My Home Hub, like many newer routers, can support both standards, and is set to 802.11b/g (http://bthomehub.home/ to access the settings, for version 1.0 click Advanced, enter password etc, click Configuration, Wireless, it's the Interface Type dropdown.)
That's just the capabilities of the gear, and checking the initial set up. (If you're not using your ISP's router or the stingy sods didn't provide one and you have to buy your own wireless router, the above should also help as a buying guide - make sure it has WPA, 802.11n with support for older if your computers only do 802.11g etc, and oh a hardware firewall too; and of course very importantly ensure that the router is compatible with your ISP's flavour of internet connection e.g. cable or ADSL, is it ADSL2+ etc.)

Now, how do you actually get them to talk to each other?

3. The router - basic concepts

First, it's helpful to know some very basic points about the router and how it works.

A. Positioning the router

It's best to place the router as high up as possible (e.g. on a shelf), with as little stuff as possible between it and the computers you want to network (or more correctly between it and the wirelesss adapters you're using). Walls and ceilings can't be helped of course. About 150 feet is usually the max distance a computer can be from the router for a wireless connection to work.

Avoid having it near possible sources of interference like the computers themselves, cordless phones/mice, video senders, baby monitors, microwave ovens, metal like radiators or pipes, lots of water like fishtanks.

The shorter the distance betwen the router and the computer, the better, so try to have it equidistant from your various computers if possible, e.g. in the center of your home. And have the antenna vertical.

B. Router configuration /settings

Normally you'd access the router's settings controls via the Web browser of a computer that's connected to the router (whether via a wired or wireless connection).

The address of the router varies, but usually http://192.168.1.254/ works (e.g. for the BT Home Hub and Be's ADSL2+ box). Some boxes have friendlier alternatives e.g. http://bthomehub.home/ also works to get to the Home Hub main settings page.

C. Network name or SSID

The wireless network set up by each router has its own identifying network name or SSID e.g. "BTHomeHub-1A00" (the original SSID is often printed on a label at the back or bottom of the router). Each router will ideally have a different network name.

Basically the router will sit there, broadcasting its own SSID to the world: "I'm BTHomeHub-1A00, here I am, ready & waiting for a request to connect to me".

You can change the router's SSID to a more personalised one via its router configuration page (BT Home Hub: Advanced, Configuration, Wireless, Configure, change contents of Network Name box (NB make sure you have a note of the new name!), Apply.)

It's also possible to tell the router not to broadcast its network name, for added security (BT Home Hub: Advanced, Configuration, Wireless, Security, untick Broadcast Network Name, Apply). I found I couldn't connect at all after I did that, even via computers on my network which had the right (though now invisible) SSID, so I ticked it again. You may fare better.

D. Channel

The router can broadcast its network name generally, or you can set it to broadcast only on a particular numbered "channel" (a bit like TV channels). You might want to do that for better security or to improve the connection e.g. to try to deal with interference from other equipment (such as cordless phones), or interference from neighbours' wifi systems.

Normally channel selection is automatic, but if you decide to set it to a specific channel try channel 11 or below first as some gear has trouble coping with channel 12 and up, and usually try to transmit on a channel that's at least 4 channels away from the channels your neighbours are using.

Again, you set the channel via whatever web page you use to configure your model of router (BT Home Hub: Advanced, Configuration, Wireless, Security, change Channel Selection to Manual, in Channel choose the number).

E. Security

Wi fi connections can be either public or secure (i.e. encrypted, requiring the correct passphrase (wireless key) to connect). Free public wi-fi hotspots in cafes etc are usually open and unsecured with no encryption at all, though some public wi-fi access points have encryption.
  • Why a secured connection is best. You'd probably want your home network to be secure for all sorts of reasons. With an unsecured wifi connection, other people could p0tentially use your broadband internet service for free ("wifi leeching"), and you might not even know it because it's done wirelessly - they could be sitting out in your street in a car with a laptop, having driven round in search of an unsecured wi-fi wireless network ("war driving"). They could even be your neighbours.

    That would of course have consequences for your broadband costs (as their usage will eat into your download/upload allowance with your ISP, and thus potentially cost you money), as well as other risks - e.g. if they download illegal material it could be blamed on you, the network owner, and you could be accused of being the person who accessed that material.

    True, it's illegal for people to freeride using others' wifi internet connection and they could be fined for it. Plus, in Germany recently, in a lawsuit against the owner of an unsecured home wireless network for alleged illegal file sharing, Frankfurt's Higher Regional Court ruled that the owner was not responsible for the activity of other people on that network - the owner said it was someone else using the owner's network who had downloaded the files, and the court decided that the owner wasn't liable.

    But still, an open wi fi connection was considered an insufficient defence in a child porn case in the USA, and we don't yet know if the UK would take the same view as Germany or not - so it's best practice to secure your wireless connection (don't forget the finances angle too).
Routers generally come with security already enabled on them. One important point to note is that there are different types of encryption. Older routers use WEP (Wired Equivalent Privacy) for wireless encryption - but that's now very insecure. Using WEP is almost as bad as having no encryption at all - as Wikipedia puts it, " today a WEP connection can be cracked with readily available software within minutes". Newer gear uses WPA (wi-fi protected access) security protocol, which is much more secure.

However, surprise surprise, the two standards are different - and both router and computer need to use the same encryption standard. If your notebook computer only uses WEP and your router uses WPA, they won't be able to talk to each other. In that case you may have no choice but to set your router to use WEP - unlike with wi fi standards, where some kit can support different standards at the same time, with wi-fi encryption it seems to be a case of lowest common denominator only. (BT Home Hub: change security via Advanced, Configuration, Wireless, Security, in the Encryption section choose "Use WPA-PSK" or, if absolutely necessary but don't say I didn't warn you, "Use WEP Encryption". I'll provide more detail on wifi networking and the BT Home Hub in a separate post). In such a situation it really would be best if possible to upgrade your WEP notebook or other computer to one that uses WPA - or else buy a compatible wifi USB adapter or wireless card for it that supports WPA.

So to sum up on the security / encryption front: the router and all computers you plan to network must use the same encryption standard (ideally WPA); and furthermore the "key" (a password or passphrase, i.e. series of letters and numbers) which you use for each computer when trying to connect to the router must match the key that has been set up for the router (BT Home Hub: Advanced, Configuration, Wireless, Security, the password is the string of characters in the Wireless Key box; click Apply if you change it, again make sure you have a note of the new key).

The above is just the basic minimum security measures you ought to take. There are others you should consider, but I won't cover them in detail here - e.g. turn off broadcasting of your router's SSID name (so only people who know the name can connect - you'll then need to tweak your connection settings on each computer if you do that to ensure it connects even when the network isn't broadcasting); change the default administrator password on the hub, and the default WPA password / key; and use MAC address filtering to limit access to your router only to particular specified hardware devices, each of which has a unique hardware address known as a MAC address - not the same as IP address (access MAC address filtering on BT Home Hub). Also generally see BT Home Hub suggestions and their general security help.

Most routers will have a built-in hardware firewall for added security, which is a good thing - this is to help protect the computers on your network from attacks over the Internet generally (whereas the WEP / WPA security is intended to protect unauthorised devices / people from using your wireless network to access the Net etc).

4. Connecting computers to router

Next, how do you get a computer to connect to the router?

A. Basic principles

These general steps apply to all computers, not just Windows ones (I'll cover the specifics of how to do them in Windows XP and Vista in B. below):
  1. Make sure the computer's wi-fi is set up, turned on and working - see 2.1 and 2.3 above.
  2. Launch what I think of as the "wifi network detector", which scans the airwaves for wireless networks that you can try to connect to, and then shows you a list of names (i.e. SSIDs) of the available networks.
  3. Select the network you want from the list (it should be yours, of course! unless of course you're at a public hotspot etc), usually by clicking on its name e.g. BTHomeHub-1A00.
  4. Try to connect, usually by rightclicking on the name or clicking the name and choosing whatever option there is to "Connect" or doubleclicking the name.
    • If you've set your router to broadcast only on channel X, make sure that that connection is set to detect all channels or channel X too; it won't detect your network if it's only looking on, or "tuned to", channel Y.
  5. It'll ask for the network key, security key or passphrase (unless it's an open unsecured network which doesn't need one). Enter exactly the same key as you set up for the router, matching upper or lower case etc.
  6. Before you connect, if there are any options to automatically try to connect to this network as the preferred one on startup, you might want to tick those first (though you should be able to set that up manually later) e.g. on a computer you always use only at home.
  7. Hit Connect.
  8. Give it a while to do its thang, then test it by trying to visit a page on your browser (I usually try http://news.bbc.co.uk/). (Your browser Connections or Network settings by the way should normally be set up, in its Options or Preferences, to connect to the internet direct (Never dial a connection) and not through any proxy servers etc - unless of course you know what you're doing.)
Now for some specifics. The Windows networking wizard to set up a home or small office network will walk you through the key steps - I'd run it on your main computer first, then the secondary ones. (You can find the wizard via Network Connections, accessed through your Start Menu or Control Panel, or in My Network Places - the Wireless Network Setup Wizard is obviously more appropriate).

But, I'm still going to go through some of the manual steps because knowing them will help with troubleshooting if (or rather when!) you get issues with connecting in future.

B. Name each computer

You should give each computer a different name so you'll recognise it on the network, and add it to a "workgroup":
  1. Go to the Properties for your computer.
    • XP. On the desktop, rightclick My Computer, Properties, Computer Name tab, click Change.
    • Vista. Start menu, rightclick on Computer, choose Properties, then Advanced System Settings. Click the Computer Name tab and Change
  2. In "Computer description" give the computer a name e.g. "Desktop", "Laptop 1", or probably something more imaginative than that!
  3. In "Workgroup", enter the name of its workgroup e.g. MySpiffyWorkgroup - if you've already done this for another computer in your network, make sure it's the same name exactly, upper and lower case etc, just in case (you can use any name you like for the workgroup, make one up, just as long as it's the same name for all the computers you want to network). Don't skip this step if you want your network to work. You " join" the computer to a workgroup just by inserting the name of the workgroup here.
  4. Then OK.

C. Connecting wirelessly

  1. You should already have installed and plugged in your wireless adapter hardware (including all drivers from the installation CD), if it wasn't built in to the PC. Also, make sure it's turned on /enabled, see 2.1 and 2.3 above.
  2. To connect, open Wireless Connections from the computer's Network Connections page:
    • XP. Start menu, Connect to (or Start menu, Network Connections), then click or doubleclick Wireless Network Connection. Or you can get to it via the Control Panel, Network Connections then doubleclick Wireless Network Connection.
    • Vista. Network (from Start menu or desktop), then Network and Sharing Center; from the Tasks on the left click "Connect to a network". Or just Start menu and Connect to, etc.
  3. A list of of available wireless networks will come up; to connect, click or rightclick on the name of your network and choose Connect (or doubleclick the name of your network) - I've scrubbed out the SSIDs in the screenshot below, and in other screenshots in this post:


  4. Type in the key (passphrase) for your network, as used by your router (you may have to do this twice to confirm it); tick any options to automatically connect to the network in future, if that option is available and that's what you want.
  5. Thereafter, the easiest way to connect is to use the networking icon in the system tray / notification area, at the bottom right of your taskbar. It looks like a monitor with radio waves: - with a happy buzzy beam when it's connected (or in Vista ) and a sad red X when disconnected: . Just doubleclick the icon (or rightclick it and choose "View Available Wireless Networks", depending) and pick the network to connect to. These icons are very useful to check the status of your connection, connect, disconnect, view available networks, change connection properties etc.
    • Vista annoyance. Irritatingly, sometimes in Vista the networking icon disappears from the system tray and is greyed out from the notification area section of the Taskbar Properties. Here's how to get it back. It'll probably vanish again so get used to doing this regularly. If it's gone, you can connect using step 2 above or the quick launch bar icon if you've added it (see below).
  6. You can hover over the icon to see the status of your connection: connection strength, speed etc (there's more info in XP than Vista; to get the detailed info in Vista you have to click on the icon, then Network and Sharing Center), for details on that see 5.A below.

D. How to disconnect the wifi (and reconnect)

There are different ways, depending. Try rightclicking or clicking on the networking icon in system tray and choosing Disconnect.

Here are the rightclick options in Vista:

Or in XP rightclick the icon and choose View Available Wireless Networks, then in the list either doubleclick on the name of the network or click on the name of the network and click Disconnect (and say Yes to disconnect if necessary). (If you rightclick on the networking icon and choose Disable, that disables wi-fi completely on that computer until you re-enable it - not just for this particular network but all wireless networks).

Provided wi fi is enabled, thereafter it'll be easy to re-connect by clicking, doubleclicking or rightclicking the networking icon:



If you find that other nearby networks have the same name as yours (e.g. Be seem to give all their routers the same SSID of "Bebox" without any unique ID after the name, unlike BT), you can still find your own network because it's likely to be the one with the strongest signal, i.e. the most green bars in the list of network names.

5. Tips and troubleshooting problems

A. Connection status and properties

The first step for troubleshooting is to be able to check what's going on. As I mentioned in 4.C.5 above, the networking icons in your system tray / notification area are very handy to let you connect or disconnect quickly, check and change settings etc.

XP. Hover over the icon to see speed and connection info:

Or rightclick the icon:

- and choose Status to see general info on the connection (you could also doubleclick the icon to get to Status):

- and the Support tab shows the IP address of that connection, subnet mask and default gateway etc (which you may need for 5.C below):

  • "IP address" is just a unique numerical identifier assigned to a device (e.g. computer) to distinguish it from other devices on a network - whether a home network or indeed the Internet. On your home network, normally when a computer connects to the router the router will automatically give it an IP address for that session i.e. a dynamic IP address: when another computer connects, it gets assigned a different IP address, and so on (so the same computer could be given a different IP address the next time it connects).
You can also click the Properties button from the Status tab. Note the Wireless Networks tab of Properties:

From this Wireless Networks tab you can click on the name of a connection (in the Preferred networks section), then click Properties again (the button below the networks list), to get to the specific properties of that connection - notably the "Association" tab (which I'll come to below) and "Connection" tab. The "Connection" tab is where you can tick to get that particular connection (i.e. to your router) to be made automatically, if you want that computer to connect to your home network where possible whenever you turn it on:


Vista. Rightclick the icon, Network and Sharing Center (or get to the Center from the Start menu, Network):

- then click "View status" to get the status:

- and from that tab click Details to get the IP address, subnet mask etc:

- or the Wireless Properties button (not Properties) to get connection and security info (the Connection tab is where you can set that computer to connect automatically to your home network, if you didn't tick that option previously):

- the Security tab shows the type of security and encryption in use, and as mentioned it has to be compatible with what the router uses. You can also update your security key passphrase here if you changed it in your router:

Alternatively, call up the list of available networks (SSID list), e.g. by leftclicking on the network icon and choosing "Connect or disconnect":


Then you can hover over the network name in the SSID list to get speed etc. info:

- and you can rightclick the network name and choose Status to get to the same status tab:


(note that, confusingly, if you choose Properties from here, it brings up the Connection and Security tabs i.e. the Wireless Network Properties mentioned above).

B. Add the network connection icon to your quick launch bar for quick access

In Network Connections:

- rightclick on the icon for Wireless Network Connection, choose Create Shortcut, then drag the shortcut to your Quicklaunch bar in order to access the connection (connect/disconnect), its status and properties quickly in future, just by clicking or rightclicking on it.

It also works for a wired network connection (where a network cable has been used), see the first icon, the upside down T, in the screenshot above. The wireless network icon is the 3rd one along, wouldja believe.

This is very useful for Vista if your computer suffers from the disappearing networking icon syndrome mentioned above.

C. The firewall trap

One gotcha to watch. If one or more of your to-be-networked computers has a software firewall like the free ZoneAlarm, the firewall may also block other computers on the network. That's another reason why home networking may not seem to work sometimes and you can't see the other computers on the network.

The solution - configure the firewall to allow your home network / home computers through i.e. add them to your trusted zone, in ZoneAlarm parlance:
  • Open or restore ZoneAlarm Control Centre.
  • On the left click Firewall.
  • Bottom right click Add, IP Range, fill in the lowest and highest IP address that the computers on your network use, add a description for your home network (screenshot of example below), then OK.
    • The IP addresses available for assignment on a private home network are within a set range, usually from 192.168.0.0 to 192.168.255.255, which is why entering IPs encompassing that range or the main part of that range should work in ZoneAlarm. The router also has an IP address of its own - usually 192.168.1.254, which you'll recognise from earlier.
    • Tip: for the first address, use 192.168.1.64; for the second address you could try what I show below or if that doesn't work try upping it, e.g. to 192.168.1.237 or even 192.168.255.255



    • Static IPs. If entering an IP range doesn't work and your computers still can't see each other on the network, then try giving each computer a fixed, static IP address e.g. 192.168.1.65 for the first PC, 192.168.1.66 for the next one, etc; they must be different for each computer. Next, in ZoneAlarm, instead of adding an IP Range add an IP Address for the individual computer concerned, and rinse and repeat for each of the other IP addresses you give the other computers on your network.

      - How to assign a static IP address to a computer: on XP; in Vista - but ignore the bits about the DNS server, and the subnet mask will probably be 255.255.255.0 and default gateway 192.168.1.254 - just check what the subnet mask etc are in your existing connection before you try setting a static IP address, and then use the same IP addresses and subnet mask etc when setting a static IP. You can also check the IP address via the properties, see A above.
      - IP address, subnet mask, default gateway: tip. To check what IP address is used by a particular connection, what is the subnet mask or default gateway, see 5.A above (if you don't want to use the ipconfig method described in the previous links). You don't actually need to know what a subnet mask is, just make sure when you assign a static IP address that the subnet mask figure (e.g. 255.255.255.0) matches what it was in the existing connection, and similarly for default gateway.
      - Note: if you assign a static IP to a computer, and then want to use it outside your home network e.g. on a public wifi network, you may have to change it back to use a dynamic IP address or it may not work; then change it back to the original static IP when you get home.

D. Trouble reconnecting? Try tweaking the network connection properties

Windows XP SP2 upwards is supposed to make network configuration pretty much automatic. However I've had issues with being able to connect once, but not again, or not at all, etc. There's a particular problem after you put the computer to sleep (standby, hibernate) - when it resumes or wakes up again, it doesn't always automatically reconnect to your home wifi network and it can be hard to get it to get it to connect again even when you try to connect manually. Similarly if you've taken a laptop out of the house and used it on another wi fi network; when you bring it home it doesn't always re connect properly. And if you manually disconnect a computer from your wi-fi network at any time, then later try to get it to connect again, it may stubbornly refuse to.

In those situations, what's worked for me (and might work for you, but I can't guarantee it) was to tweak the detailed settings for the security. To change the security settings for your connection properties - for XP go to the Association tab for the problem connection (see 5.A above on how to get there):


- for Vista, go to the Security tab, again see 5.A on how to get to that tab.

In both cases, I've found that if I change the security (Network Authentication) from WPA2-PSK or WPA2-Personal to just WPA-PSK or WPA-Personal, and the Data encryption from AES to TKIP, and then OK it, then try to reconnect on that connection again, it will connect (even though after connecting it then may then flip itself to AES and WPA2-PSK or WPA2-Personal!). I haven't learned enough to figure out why this happens, I just know that it works for me, so maybe it'll work for you if you have problems. (The network key must of course stay the same, whatever you set for your router.)

No connected networking icon? If the computer is disconnected and the problem is that you can't connect, then you may have to get to the properties for that computer's connection to the router another way - try going in via the Network Connections (Control Panel or Start menu) instead.

In XP rightclick the Wireless Network Connection icon in the computer's Network Connections, then Properties.

In Vista, try the Manage wireless networks task link in the Network and Sharing Center, which brings up a list of your wireless connections, even those which are not currently connected. Doubleclick on the icon for a connection to see its Security tab and change the security settings there.

If you can call up a list of available networks e.g. via the Start menu (Connect to or Network), or rightclicking the networking icon to View Available Wireless Networks, or rightclicking the Wireless Network Connection in Network Connections, then the "Changed advanced settings" task to the left of the SSID list (see the last pic in A. above) should help you get to the Wireless Networks tab in XP. Just rightclicking on the network name in the list and choosing Properties should do it in Vista.

Just experiment as the setup may vary with your flavour of Windows. The point is to find the detailed security settings and try the changes I suggested above.

Other things to try if that doesn't work:
  • Turn wireless off (by whatever method your computer uses - hardware switch or Fn key combo, rightclick the networking icon to Disable etc); then turn it on or enable it again, wait a bit for it to be enabled fully, then try connecting again.

  • Rightclick the networking icon, then Repair. Reconnect; use any Diagnose options available from the networking pages or icons.

6. Sharing files, folders, CD-ROM drives, printers on your network

Now your computers are networked, what next? You should be able to access the Net via your router from all networked computers, obviously.

What else? Well the principles are essentially the same. Again I'll mainly use a Windows XP Pro computer for the examples.

First, how do you "see" one computer on the network while you're on another computer? (obviously you can only do this if both computers are switched on and connected to the router at the same time.)

Answer: you can see the network via the Network (Vista) or My Network Places (XP) icon which you'll find on the desktop or in the file manager e.g. My Computer or Windows Explorer on the left (on an XP computer drill down through My Network Places, Entire Network, Microsoft Windows Network, then click on the name of your workgroup) - from which you can click on the name of the computer you want to access.

A. Workgroup

With Windows computers you can only "see" a computer from another computer if they're both in the same "workgroup". Being on the same network isn't enough. That's why you had to ensure that all Windows computers in your home network are in the same workgroup, in 4.B above.

This can be a bit of a pain for home users, and is the reason why some people have trouble setting up a full home network: they didn't add some computers to the right workgroup (or indeed to any workgroup).

If you've run through the network setup wizard you'll have already named your computer and workgroup and enabled file and printer sharing etc.

B. Sharing folders and files

Now, being able to see a computer on the network is not enough for you to be able to access files on that computer from another computer on the same network.

To do that, a further step is necessary - you need to "share" the relevant folders on the computer first, for security reasons.

If you ran the Networking Setup wizard, Windows will have set up a shared folder on the computer called "Shared Documents" (not a sub-folder within "My Documents" but a new folder parallel to it, because it's not "Your" Documents is it, it's shared!). You can save or move or copy into this folder any documents that you want to share with other computers on your network.

If however you want to share individual folders within My Documents:
  • In Windows Explorer, rightclick on the name of the folder you want to share.
  • Choose Sharing and Security.
  • In the Sharing tab, tick "Share this folder/file on the network" and, if you wish, tick "Allow network users to change my files" (otherwise they'll only be able to read them and save a duplicate etc.), then OK.
Shared folders look different in My Computer / Windows Explorer - the icons have what I think of as a little flame at the bottom (see the Blog folder icon below):

Note: you can't share a document unless you share the folder that contains it; sharing a folder will share all documents and sub-folders within that folder. And obviously, a shared folder on a particular computer will only be visible to other computers on the network if the computer holding that folder is turned on.

Tip: even if you don't want to use Shared Documents you can still create a special folder within My Documents for the documents you want to share on the network, called e.g. "Shared", and share just that folder, moving the desired documents into that folder. That's obviously still going to be more secure than sharing all the documents, photos / pictures or other files in the "My Documents" folder of the computer or user.

C. Sharing printers

You can share i.e. network printers in the same way.

In XP open up the Printers folder of the computer that's directly connected to the printer (Start menu, Printers and Faxes), rightclick on the printer you want to share, choose Sharing, select Share this Printer (and give it a "Share name" to identify it on the network, consider clicking Additional Drivers to add more drivers for different flavours of Windows computers if you have them), then OK.

An extra step is needed - on each other computer on your network which is to print to the networked printer, you have to go to its Printers folder, choose Add Printer, and then add the printer you shared previously, making sure you choose "A network printer", and browse to the correct printer. And it'll only work if the right printer drivers are installed for all the types of computer operating systems that you want to use.

If the shared printer is connected only to computer A, and you want to print from computer B to that networked printer, obviously you can only do that if computer A is switched on and connected to the network. To be able to use a networked printer while your other home computers are switched off, you can buy a print server (for as little as under £30 even) which you connect to both your router and your printer. Then, as long as your router is switched on (which it normally will be always), you can print to that printer even if other computers are switched off. Again, make sure the printer server will support all the computers you want to use with it.

D. Sharing CD-ROM or DVD drives, external hard drives etc

Same thing with sharing optical drives and the like.

Rightclick the name of the drive in Windows Explorer, Sharing and Security, then carry on exactly as with folders.

Very useful if your notebook computer or UMPC doesn't have an optical drive built in - you can still access CDs and DVDs from the notebook, and run the software across the network. On the notebook, just find the computer on the network with the shared DVD or CD drive, and as long as it's been shared, you'll see the drive on the network and you can pop a disc into the drive and access it from the notebook. (Doesn't work to play music CDs though, haven't investigated tweaks for that.)

Similarly, if you have an external hard drive attached to computer A you can share that drive (and folders within it) and then access that drive from another computer on the network, as long as computer A is switched on at the time.

If you want to have a shared dedicated hard drive accessible by all computers on your network even if not all computers are switched on at the time, you can get network attached storage (NAS). There are 2 main ways to achieve this:
  • buy a large hard drive that acts as a NAS server, e.g. the Western Digital MyBook World Edition (to which you can add another external USB hard drive, and which even lets you access files on that drive over the Net), or
  • get a NAS device which lets you attach your existing USB hard drives to the network direct, like the Linksys NSLU2 (which has 2 USB ports for external hard disks and also lets you network USB flash drives).
You'd obviously need to have a free Ethernet port on your router to be able to connect the NAS server or device.